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Next: Thursday 27 August Up: Scotland 1998 August Previous: Tuesday 25 August

Wednesday 26 August

We arose around 7.30 and had breakfast back at the normal time of 8.30. After packing and saying our farewells to Mrs Nicholson, we left around 10.00.

Our ferry did not depart until 3pm and check-in was an hour earlier, so we had some time to kill. Having visited most of the major attractions on the mainland that we wanted to see, we decided to take a drive around the island.

Having been amused when passing a roadsign pointing to the village of ``Twatt'' on Sunday (small things pleasing small minds), we decided to head back there and take photographs of each other standing by said sign, if only for the silliness value. I later learned that we were mispronouncing the name, but the correct name (to rhyme with `pot') is of less humour value.

Photos were duly taken, rather hurriedly as it was distinctly on the cold side out of the car. We continued around the north of the mainland, declining Richard's suggestion that we take the potholed road down to the Broch of Gurness again. We were forced to stop at one point when we found a horse wandering down the middle road, not wishing to attempt any sudden movements to pass it for fear that it might inflict damage upon the car. Pauline got out to alert a nearby farmer of the stray beast, but he seemed not to be particularly bothered by it --- quite possibly this was a routine occurrence. Eventually it moved itself out of our way and we were able to continue.

We paused on a road overlooking Gairsay Sound to look across to some of the more northerly islands. Rousay and Wyre we had previously seen from the Broch of Gurness, but now being further round we could see, among others, Gairsay, Sweyn Holm, Shapinsay, Egilsay, Eday and the Green Holms: Muckle Green Holm and Little Green Holm. Muckle Green Holm later became the name given to my computer in Astrophysics, given the requirement that it be named after a Scottish island.

We had taken a detour on to some minor roads in order to head towards a place marked on the map as the ``Knowes of Euro'', considering anything with such a name to be worthy of a visit in the name of European harmonisation. There proved to be little to see from the road (I believe that the Knowes are yet more Stone Age mounds). Our route was obstructed by more wildlife, in the form of peacocks and dogs this time.

Our next port of call was at Wideford Hill, one of the highest points on the mainland and site of various transmitters as well as a ``panoramic view'' symbol on the Ordnance Survey map. The view was indeed good, with Scapa Flow to one side and the more northerly islands on the other, but as it was distinctly windy and on the verge of raining outside, we remained in the car, briefly admired the view, and contemplated our next move.

This was to yet another stupidly-named place marked on the map, ``The Gloup'', at the easternmost extremity of the mainland. The Gloup proved to be a narrow inlet in the cliffs, formed by the sea rushing into a hole in the cliffs, the seaward end of which is still only a small hole in the rockface.

By this point, hunger was coming upon us and we decided to seek a light lunch, nothing too heavy given the strength of the wind experienced on Wideford Hill and conditions on our outward journey. We returned into the centre of Kirkwall, parked, purchased some postcards and some sandwiches from a shop in the centre and returned to the car to eat.

We returned to the car and headed for Stromness, joining the ferry queue around 2pm. Apart from a brief wander over to the small terminal, we remained in the car until it was time to board.

St. Ola departed at 3pm, and despite our taking seats in the forward passenger lounge, Pauline and I spent most of the crossing on deck, Richard joining us for much of the way. Thankfully our fears of rough conditions were unfounded: apart from a slight swell as we cleared Hoy Sound which spattered us with water, the crossing was quite smooth.

Conditions were clear, giving us excellent views as we came past Hoy, enabling us to take some rather better pictures of St John's Head and the Old Man than we had managed to obtain on the outward voyage. As we came past we were able to identify many features on Hoy and say, ``yes, we were there yesterday''.

The boat docked at 5pm, and we disembarked promptly, then drove the short distance into Thurso to fill up with petrol (significantly cheaper than on Orkney --- having an oil terminal nearby in no way guarantees cheap petrol) and to change drivers.

We headed back down south along the A9, heading towards Inverness. Noticeable on the roadway was the number of dead animals, particularly rabbits, killed by the passing traffic. A comment on this from Richard, parodying a well-known commercial for a product named ``Wash & Go'', prompted me to extend the parody by commenting ``squash and go'' and provoking much mirth and hilarity.

We decided to stop for dinner in Dornoch, and found a respectable-looking establishment, the Eagle Hotel. I had a good meal of haggis followed by Cajun Butterfly Chicken Steak.

We crossed the Dornoch Firth just as the sun was setting, and noticing the stunning view to the west, Pauline as driver made an executive decision to stop to take photographs. She was very annoyed that she had to load a new film, as she'd used up her film on the boat and not had a spare with her at the time. By the time she'd changed her film, she'd missed the best of the sunset.

We continued on our way and arrived at the guesthouse in Contin, about twenty miles northwest of Inverness, around 9pm. The landlady proved to be very friendly and the rooms large and comfortable, complete with colour television. After unpacking, we spent the remainder of the evening relaxing and planning things to do over the next few days. There was also the matter of Pauline launching an attack on me --- I claim this was completely unprovoked but she still begs to differ.

We retired to bed around 11pm.



next up previous
Next: Thursday 27 August Up: Scotland 1998 August Previous: Tuesday 25 August



Robin Stevens
Tue Jan 5 10:56:32 GMT 1999