Sunny in morning, becoming overcast
I was up at 7.50, and had breakfast with eggs over easy again. My intention for the day was to visit the Art Institute on Michigan Avenue, but as it did not open until 10.30, I had some time to spare. I went to the Chicago Board of Trade in the hope of visiting the trading floors, but on enquiring I learned that owing to security considerations there was no longer any public access. A few traders had strayed from the bustle of the trading floor and were wandering around the building sporting garishly-coloured jackets. I returned to Michigan Avenue and spent some time browsing in an architectural bookshop, purchasing a volume on the city, before heading across the road and into the Institute.
My guidebook listed a ``90 minute'' tour of the Art Institute, but it was immediately evident that much more time was required to do it justice. I started off by taking a look at the Thorne Miniatures, a series of delightful 1/12-scale exquisitely-detailed reproductions of European, American and Asian interiors through the centuries.
I next took a brief look at some of the Oriental artifacts before heading into the long Gunsaulus Hall which links the two halves of the institute, situated as they are on opposite sides of the Metra tracks. This hall was lined on one side with suits of armour and numerous items of weaponry, while on the other side were various religious items.
The European decorative arts rooms were filled with fascinating items, one of the highlights being the stunning 1640 Augsburg Cabinet, made of ebony and ivory and with almost countless drawers and compartments. I followed this section with a quick pass of the American Arts (some paintings here were familiar from exhibitions in London), and then the Indian & Asian section, before reaching the Chicago Stock Exchange. Well, almost -- the original building had been knocked down in 1972 but the interior of the trading floor had been moved and restored to its 1894 appearance, though as an empty room it somehow seemed rather soulless.
Next stop was lunch (a beef sandwich and pasta salad) then a look at the Greco-Roman and African-American rooms before heading for the important paintings upstairs. Here were some of the museum's masterpieces, including Grant Wood's 1930 ``American Gothic'', depicting a grim-looking couple in front of an Iowa farmhouse (the characters apparently modelled by his sister and dentist).
The Impressionist section contained the so-called ``money room'', featuring some of Monet's best-known works -- again several of these I had seen before in exhibitions in London. I then found myself having to accelerate a little around the other European rooms as time was running short. The museum closed at 4.30, which I thought a little early given its late opening time, particularly as entrance was $11.00 as opposed to nothing. The upper galleries were closed even earlier, in an attempt to drive people towards the shop. I couldn't help feeling both literally and metaphorically put out.
I decided to take the metro a few miles north into the suburbs and then walk several blocks east to Lincoln Park, close to the lakeshore. The park features a free zoo, which according to my guidebook was open until 7.00 at this time of year. It was incorrect: the indoor sections (including more penguins) closed at 5.00 and the outdoor sections an hour later. Large sections were undergoing major construction work, and those which were open seemed to give animals rather limited space and a fairly dull environment. Various large cats were on view, including a very sleepy lion and a somewhat angry-looking cougar. One area claimed to contain deer but all that was on view was a contemplative mallard.
I returned to the nearest El station and took a train down to Library, then walked back to the hotel. I headed out later for food in a Loop establishment which was part pub, part restaurant. I had a Caesar salad and ``choice'' ribeye steak, before heading back to repack for the next day's flight west. On television, one of the channels was showing David Attenborough's excellent series ``The Life of Mammals'' though in a slightly odd order. I went to bed at 11.00.